q/a with ulrika sandström.

Sweden certainly isn’t an insider’s tip any more in terms of its fashion designers, considering how many uprising designers have emerged from it recently with the unique Swedish vibe to their collections. Clean cut, straight, but still edgy and playful enough to protrude. Ulrika Sandström is one of those designers – starting out as a freelance designer and stylist until she founded her own label in 2004.

A label aiming to create wearable fashion yet having a unique look. Sandström finds inspiration in music and artists, with such being the case, the collections carry he names of song titles and therefore serve as inspiration. The collections have been called Alphaville’s “Big in Japan” and Pet Shop Boys’ “West End Girls” to “PJ”, a collection completely devoted to the artist PJ Harvey so far. Her latest one is called “DNA”, inspired by the 80s and 90s with the extra unique Ulrika Sandström quirk added.
Following, we asked Ulrika about her influences, work and favourite music.
photo credits: Ida Borg

When did you grow an interest for the fashion world and decide to become a fashion designer?
I think I’ve always loved clothes and fashion. As a little girl I used to style myself, my little sister and my teddybears. I read every fashion magazine I could get my hands on and drew paperdolls all day long. And then there was the fact that that my parents used to do ballroom dancing. My mother used to make her own dancing dresses, and that put stars in my eyes. Growing up, I was into all kinds of artistic expression. I took courses in painting, drawing, sewing and patterning, always parallel with my “normal” studies. After a university course in Cultural Studies in Uppsala, where I wrote an essay on fashion theory, I decided to take my interest seriously. I went to Tillskärarakademien for a year and then went on to three years of fashion education at Beckman’s School of Design. For me, Beckman’s was like coming home, and one year after graduating I started the label Ulrika Sandström.

What’s your source of inspiration?
Music. And people that are passionate about life and what they do. To hang out with people in other creative areas also inspires me a lot.

And what was your inspiration for the Spring/Summer collection 2011 in particular?
I was inspired by my own childhood memories of pouring over mail-order catalogues in my parent’s living room in the suburbs of Stockholm, with brightly coloured music videos playing on the television. Among this season’s musical inspirations were Howard Jones, Yazoo and Siouxsie and the Banshees, and the “more is more” spirit of that decade. The collection can shortly be described as typical late 80s meets 90s, but with a unique Ulrika Sandström twist.

Can you tell me more about your creative process?
It is normally a long period of research, sketching, looking for interesting materials, sketching again before the work with all models start, which includes draping and patternmaking and sewing of samples. I normally have a lot of new ideas during the process, and I “kill my darlings” several times before I reach a result that is satisfying.

What should never be missing from a collection?
Ideas, beauty, creativity and a strong sense of style.

Are there any designers you look up to?
I love what Nicholas Ghesquire does for Balenciaga. And I really like Preen, a British design duo.

Who would you love to design clothes for?
PJ Harvey.

You named your collections after musicians and songs – which music are your currently listening to?
I listen a lot to Noah And The Whale, PJ Harvey, Black Angels and Woods. And the Soundtrack to Jesus Christ Superstar actually!

What do you think about designer collaborations with big high street retailers?
I think it’s a good thing. It is a way of making the collections available to a bigger audience. As long as you as a designer can control the quality and have insight in the production process, there is a lot to gain for both parties.

Do you read any blogs, and if yes which?
Not really, I rarely find the time….

Is there a difference between making clothes for yourself and designing them for others/collections?
I keep my own collections very “me”. One of the reasons to run your own label is that you can always stay true to yourself design wise. There is not a single product in my collections that I wouldn’t wear myself. When you are designing for other companies, you naturally have to take their vision, style and of course their target group into consideration. There is a huge difference. However, I’ll always try to keep my style to a certain extent, even though it can’t be too obvious.

source: private

How would you describe your personal style?
I’d like to steal a line from my press release here, describing my latest collection: „Classic meets street in sharp and elegant cuts combined with feminine draping, delicate ruffles and sparkling bright colours mixed with wearable black“.

Thanks a lot for your time!

• Official Webpage
• Online Shop

Ulrika Sandström is available in Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Austria, Australia, USA, Hong Kong and China. In Vienna collection pieces are available at Camille Boyer in the 7th district. Her past collections are greatly reduced – don’t miss out on the West End Girl’s collection, it’s amazing!

words by: Kat Ober